2.5 hrs one way | 6km | Northland
Having not spent that much time in Northland I was excited to set out on an overnight trip to the Duke’s Nose Summit. I read up about the track before I went but didn’t over research what to expect and instead opted to learn as I went. It certainly didn’t disappoint. Even the drive out to the start of the track was beautiful and so by the time my boots were on and bag was on my back I already had that ‘out in nature relaxed” feeling.
The first 30 minutes of the track isn’t the highlight. It is essentially a four-wheel drive track that winds its way up the hill through some native bush. It certainly engages the legs and lungs and reminds them that they have work to do today! Once you arrive at the top, the track drops down into the bush towards the Wairakau Stream. Even though we had had glorious weather for the past week (considering it was already June), the track did have some muddy patches, so I imagine in poor conditions it could be a fun walk (slide) down the hill!
After around 45 minutes I had arrived at the first stream crossing. The water level was pretty low and it was easy to cross without getting wet feet. This is a beautiful stretch of river and a number of people I met along the way had opted to go for a swim there to cool off before continuing on.
Approximately 150m after the first crossing, you cross the stream again. Again, this was easy to do without getting feet wet with the water level so low.
However, the patch of grass between the two stream crossings was another story. A few tree branches had been placed on the ground to act as bridges to get across the grass. Not trusting my sense of balance, I opted to walk on the grass beside the branches…..and immediately regretted it as I sank ankle deep into the boggy ground below. I quickly scrambled back onto the branches and edged my way along to the stream. I met others in the Hut that night who had similarly not stuck to the branches and had gone even deeper in the mud than I did, so I counted myself lucky!
Once over the stream for the second time I headed out onto a well-maintained grassy track. Again, there were some muddy patches, but the track was really well marked, and I quickly got the Duke’s Nose in my sights to provide some direction. The track started to climb again along the banks of the stream and already I got a sense of the beautiful views that awaited with crystal clear, turquoise water and beautiful little inlets all around. A short way along the bank I found a little track heading off to the left that goes down to the water and would provide a nice spot for lunch. I also checked out one of the trapping lines up to the right thinking I would get some good views back out across the water, but it wasn’t really worth the additional effort so I wouldn’t recommend.
Around 45 minutes after the second stream crossing I arrived at the Hut. A note saying that only people with bookings at the “Cottage” greets you up by the long drop toilets. If you have bookings with DOC for Lane Cove Hut then you can head down the steps and start making yourself at home at the Hut. DOC will have sent you a code to unlock the door (the back door has a padlock on it). There is also a day shelter a couple of minutes further round the corner which is available for those without Hut Bookings that are looking for a place to stop before heading to the summit.
The Hut is lovely, with two bunkrooms and a large seating area and kitchen. Outside there is a large deck on the edge of the water with a good sized picnic table. There is no fire in this hut and no cooking facilities, so bring your own gas and cooker. However, as you can get to the hut with a water taxi, it seems quite a few people have left plates and cutlery here, so if you forget anything you will probably be able to find something.
From the Hut it wasn’t far to the summit. I opted to have an early dinner and then head up to the summit for sunset (with pudding)! The sign when you get back up to the track says 1 hour and given I hadn’t done much research I braced myself for a long slog up the hill. Gaining elevation relatively quickly it certainly got me warmed up quickly again. However, to my surprise (and delight) I reached the rock climb section after about 15 minutes of walking through the bush. This marked the last 5 minutes of the trail, so it was a much shorter walk than expected!
The first part of the climb was the trickiest to navigate with regards to finding foot holds and looked quite intimidating, but it really wasn't too bad. If you are ok with that bit, then you will be ok with the rest.
After that it gets a bit scarier if you don’t have a head for heights, but it’s actually really easy to find places for your hands and feet and the rail provides you with a backup so in terms of "climbing" it was easier than the bottom section. I went up again the next day for sunrise and was glad I had seen it in the light before attempting it in the dark, but that said, it really wasn’t anything too difficult (but then again, I don’t mind heights).
Once you reach the top of the rail, you have made it. There are plenty of flat areas to sit and enjoy the views and some bush provides a bit of cover from the wind. I perched up on the western end and waited for the sun to go down. I was treated to an incredible golden hour and sunset and didn’t really know which way to look – it was stunning in all directions and the beauty of this spot is that you have stunning 360 views.
I returned the next morning for sunrise and found myself up above the clouds. It was incredible and once again I didn’t regret the effort to make it up the short way from the hut in the dark. I looked out to Whangaroa Harbour and watched as the clouds rolled in and out and the beautiful colours filled the sky. If you are staying at the Hut, I would highly recommend heading up here for breakfast – it’s breathtaking! Be warned, it does get windy though, so take plenty of layers if you really want to relax and enjoy some time there.
Parking: Either on the Campbell Road End near the track start or if the 3-4 spots there are occupied you can head back down the hill about 300m and a field has been made available by a local resident for a $5 Koha.
Overnight options: Lane Cove Hut. Bookable on the DOC website. It is also possible to get a water taxi into the Hut.
